The 5 Best VS Climbs In Ireland

If you’re like me, then you’ve been spending most of Lockdown dreaming about getting out and climbing again, especially at my favourite Irish crags.

Sometimes thumbing through guidebooks and making tick-lists are the genesis of all good adventures.

This is a list of 5 climbs that I think every VS climber should aim to lead at some stage.

They vary in style, location and rock type and could make for a useful base for planning a summer climbing trip around Ireland.

The 5 Best VS Climbs In Ireland

The Black Thief, VS 4b, 24m, Fair Head

If you love hand jams, you’ll love The Black Thief, 24m of cruisey jams and gear on demand. Even if you don’t love hand jams yet, then this is the climb to get you started and it’s fitting that it should be a Clare and Calvin route to start off this list.

  • Best VS Climbs In Ireland Fair Head
    The worlds best crag

Prelude-Nightmare, VS 4b, 4b, 4a, 4c, 74m, Glendalough

One of the best climbs on the crag. Solid rock and decent gear placements when needed. It’s always a bit exciting leaving the belay ledge and committing to the airy Nightmare pitch. A must-do!

  • Best VS Climbs In Ireland Glendalough
    Perfect Wicklow Granite

Giraffe, VS 4c, 40m, Dun Seanna Head

Such a dramatic setting and an aesthetic line, with good holds and lots of gear.

Waves crashing around the belay ledge can add to the drama, but mostly for your belayer as they will you to hurry up.

  • Best VS Climbs In Ireland Dun Seanna
    What a location!

Girona, VS 4c, 4c, 47m, Fair Head

Another at Fair Head, but then it is the best crag in the world, so hardly surprising. Girona has a bit of everything climbing wise, but for me the final few moves on the upper section of pitch 2 are class. Hard for the grade but with gear on demand, its an absolute classic.

  • Best VS climb in Fair Head
    A Busy day at the FH meet

Jug City, VS 4c, 12m, Ailladie

It might seem odd that a 12m route peppered with jugs can be given the same grade as Girona. Its way easier to climb, but as a climbing experience, if VS is your grade, it’s up there with anything Ireland has to offer. For most people, it’s their first abseil in route at Ailladie and with good reason too.

  • Jug City VS
    Jug City, always fun to climb

Honourable mentions:

Taoiseach, VS 4c, 4c, Fair Head – The slab section at the start of pitch 2 is awesome

Mahjongg, VS 4c, Dalkey – Fun, thin slab climbing.

Roaring Meg, VS 5a, Fair Head – a long route with some excellent moves on it.R

Kudos VS 4c, 4c Gap Of Dunloe – awesome route and a good multi-pitch adventure high above the valley floor.

Hopefully, this inspires some to get out and climb when we are allowed to do so again.

Let me know if you agree or even strongly disagree with my choices of the best VS climbs in Ireland or if you feel there’s been a glaring omission then I’m happy to hear that too, it might just inspire me to get out somewhere new too.

I hope the above info is useful. If you would like to discuss any aspect further, please get in touch and I’d be happy to chat.